Likir gompa was established in the
15th century and early in its history became responsible for the
oversight of Alchi gompa, to which it has posted lamas up to the
present day. The gompa is set on an isolated ridge a few kilometers
north of Saspol. The road approaching the gompa makes a wide semi-circle
around its base, affording beautiful views of the gompa from different
vantage points. Likir belongs to the yellow-hat sect of Buddhism
and currently houses about 120 lamas. The head lama, the younger
bother of the Dalai Lama, has married (against the rule of the sect)
and is permanently absent from the gompa. The gompa school has some
thirty pupils who learn three languages besides Ladakhi, Hindi and
English, as these are the national languages of India, and Tibetan
for religious purposes. The pupils, some of who will be selected
as lamas, live part of the time in the gompa and part of the time
with their parents. Climb up to Likir's central courtyard and immediately
on the right is the main Dukhang or main assembly hall. |
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The entrance verandah is painted with
the Guardians of the Four Directions on either side of the entry
door. On the right verandah wall is a wheel of life mandala held
by Yama, the divinity that decides a person's future fate after
death. In the main Dukhang, there are six rows of seats for the
lamas. This is where the day's prayers take place and also where
the lamas take their meals. Numerous thankas hang from the columns
and walls in the Dukhang. At the front on the left are two large
chortens. Inside the chorten on the left is a statue of Avalokitesvara,
a Bodhisattva whose name means "Lord of All He Surveys"
and who is believed to be incarnated in the Dalai Lama. The chorten
on the right contains a statue of Aitabha the Buddha of the West.
In the center at the front of the hall are three large statues:
in the left and central position are statues of Sakyamuni (the Historical
Buddha) and to the right is Maitreya (the Future Buddha or Buddha
of Compassion). To the right of this are statues of Tsong-kha-pa,
founder of the yellow-hat sect with his two disciples. The throne
seat in the centre of the hall is reserved for Likir's head lama
and visiting head lamas from other gompas. The walls on both sides
of the Dukhang are lined with glass-fronted bookcases containing
the Kandshur and the Thandshur. The entrance walls are painted with
various guardian divinities. Near the entrance, by looking up, one
can see two large, rolled-up thankas hanging from the beams. These
thankas are displayed only during the winter festival. One depicts
Sakyamuni and the other Likir's guardian divinity. Exiting the Dukhang,
diagonally across from the courtyard's entrance is the "New"
Dukhang, about 200 years old. Interestingly, the entrance verandah
is not painted with the Guardians of the Four Directions, as is
the usual practice. Instead, the wall on the left depicts the different
ways a lama may wear his robes while the right wall shows the correct
way lamas should behave. The Guardians of the Four Directions appear
on the right entrance wall inside the New Dukhang. The main image
in this Dukhang is Avalokitesvara with 1000 arms and 11 heads. On
either side of this image are bookcases, filled mostly with volumes
of the Sumbum, a narrative of the life of Tsong-kha-pa. The left
side wall is painted with the 35 Confessional Buddhas. The right
side wall depicts the 16 Arhats (worthy ones who have achieved Nirvana)
on either side of a central image of Sakyamuni flanked by his two
chief disciples.
After leaving the New Dukhang, turn left and go up a ladder one
flight of steps. Step through the doorway to the left into a courtyard.
On the far left side is an entry door into the Zinchun, the head
lama's room, where the Dalai Lama stays when he visits Likir. The
room is hung with numerous thankas and contains images of various
lamas. Of particular interest are the images of the 21 Manifestations
of the White Tara (the Saviouress and consort of Avalokitesvara).
Each image is decorated with brocaded fabric and the entire effect
of these images arranged around the room is very striking. Leave
the courtyard outside the head lama's room, turn left and go down
a few steps. On the left is the new Gonkhang, devoted to guardian
divinities. Work on this temple began in 1983 and was completed
a year later. The artistry of this temple vividly demonstrates the
continuing vitality of Buddhism in this region. The left side wall
depicts guardian divinities while the right side wall shows Sakyamuni,
his disciples and various lamas. The right front wall depicts Tsong-kha-pa.
The glass-fronted room at the front of the Gonkhang contains images
of the gompa's guardian divinities. These images are covered by
cloth all year and are displayed only during the gompa's festival.
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